Burberry's Fall 2019 menswear collection wasn't about pristine perfection; it was a celebration of controlled chaos, a sophisticated unraveling of classic British tailoring. Riccardo Tisci, in his second season at the helm, continued his journey of reimagining the brand's heritage, blending its iconic check with a distinctly modern, almost rebellious spirit. This collection wasn't a homage to a romanticized past; it was a conversation with it, a dialogue between tradition and a vibrant, contemporary sensibility. The runway looks were a testament to this duality, showcasing a masterful blend of textures, silhouettes, and a surprisingly diverse palette for a traditionally muted brand.
The show itself was a spectacle, the models emerging not in a linear procession, but in a more organic, almost improvisational flow. This mirrored the collection's ethos – a sense of effortless cool that belied the meticulous craftsmanship evident in every piece. The beauty aspect played a crucial role, enhancing the slightly undone, lived-in aesthetic. Hair was styled with a deliberate tousled texture, while makeup emphasized natural features with a subtle focus on enhancing the eyes. This subtle beauty approach perfectly complemented the clothes, ensuring they remained the focal point, not overshadowed by overly stylized styling. The models themselves were a diverse and compelling group, reflecting the brand's broadening vision of masculinity and its commitment to inclusivity.
The collection itself was a masterclass in layering and proportion. Tisci's signature oversized silhouettes were prominent, but they were balanced with carefully considered details that prevented them from feeling sloppy. Classic Burberry checks appeared, but often in unexpected ways – deconstructed, reimagined as panels, or incorporated into unexpected pieces. The color palette was richer and more daring than previous seasons, moving beyond the typical muted tones associated with British menswear. Deep burgundies, forest greens, and even pops of vibrant yellow contrasted beautifully with the more neutral tones, creating a dynamic and visually arresting collection.
One of the most striking aspects of the collection was its exploration of texture. Different fabrics were expertly combined, juxtaposing the softness of cashmere with the crispness of cotton, the weight of wool with the lightness of silk. This interplay of textures added depth and complexity to the garments, preventing them from feeling one-dimensional. The use of leather, both in its traditional form and in more innovative applications, further enhanced this textural richness.
While the overall aesthetic was undeniably modern, there were clear nods to Burberry's heritage. The iconic trench coat, a cornerstone of the brand, was reimagined in various iterations, showcasing its enduring versatility. But even the trench coats were given a contemporary twist, often featuring unconventional details or unexpected proportions. This respectful yet rebellious approach to heritage was a key element of the collection's success. It wasn't simply a rehash of past designs; it was a thoughtful reinterpretation, a conversation between then and now.
The reviews for the Fall 2019 collection were largely positive, praising Tisci's ability to balance tradition and innovation. Critics lauded the collection's sophisticated yet approachable aesthetic, its masterful use of texture and layering, and its overall sense of effortless cool. The collection was seen as a significant step forward for the brand, showcasing a clear vision and a confident approach to modern menswear. It successfully appealed to a broader audience while remaining true to Burberry's core values.
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